Shane Dorian: Surviving Wipeouts, Big Wave Surfing, and Conquering Fear

Ever wondered what it’s like to stare down a 100-foot wave, or what goes through your mind when you’re getting rag-dolled underwater? Joe Rogan sits down with legendary big wave surfer Shane Dorian to delve into exactly that. From near-death experiences to the science of breath-holding, this episode is a wild ride into the world of extreme surfing and the mindset it takes to survive.

TL;DR

Shane Dorian recounts multiple near-death wipeouts and discusses the mental fortitude required to overcome fear.
The conversation covers the evolution of big wave surfing equipment and techniques, including inflatable vests and specialized surfboards.
Dorian explains the critical importance of breath-holding techniques and training for survival in heavy surf.
They explore the physical and psychological effects of extreme surfing, including the potential for long-term injuries and mental trauma.

Key Topics Covered

Facing Fear and Surviving Wipeouts

Shane Dorian and Joe Rogan discuss the sheer terror and adrenaline rush of big wave surfing. Dorian vividly describes some of his most harrowing wipeouts, emphasizing the importance of staying calm and focused under immense pressure. He explains how years of experience and mental training have helped him manage fear and increase his chances of survival in life-threatening situations.

What I found particularly interesting was Dorian’s emphasis on visualization and mental rehearsal. By mentally preparing for potential disasters, he’s able to react more effectively when things go wrong. He explains that it’s about training yourself to react, not to freeze. He mentions how he almost drowned due to thinking a leash tangled around his ankle was the fin of a shark.

“The thing about surfing is that it’s unpredictable. You can’t control the ocean, you can only control yourself.” – Shane Dorian

The Evolution of Big Wave Surfing Equipment

The conversation shifts to the incredible advancements in big wave surfing equipment. Dorian highlights the pivotal role of inflatable vests, designed to quickly bring a surfer to the surface after a wipeout. He discusses the development of specialized surfboards, including those with increased buoyancy and stability, which are crucial for navigating massive waves. They also talked about jetski assists to get into the wave.

Dorian shares his involvement in testing and refining these technologies, emphasizing that the goal is to enhance safety without compromising the core surfing experience. He explains how the gear has helped advance big wave surfing and allow surfers to push the limits of what’s possible. In addition, they also discussed some of the issues with increased crowds and that it requires people to take more accountability for themselves in order to not put other surfers in dangerous positions.

Breath-Holding Techniques and Training

A significant portion of the discussion focuses on breath-holding techniques. Dorian details his rigorous training regimen, which includes static apnea exercises, dynamic apnea exercises and hypoxic training. He stresses that these techniques are not just about holding your breath for longer but also about controlling your heart rate and conserving oxygen in stressful situations.

He recounts a situation where he held his breath for 4 minutes due to an injury that left him unable to swim up to the surface. He had practiced holding his breath for that long and was able to implement the training in this real-life scenario. Dorian emphasizes that proper training is essential for anyone venturing into heavy surf, as it can be the difference between life and death.

“Breath-holding isn’t just about time. It’s about being calm and efficient with your oxygen.” – Shane Dorian

Intriguing Anecdotes & Stories

Dorian recounts a particularly harrowing wipeout at Jaws, where he was held underwater for an extended period. He describes the feeling of panic setting in as he struggled to orient himself and find the surface. This story is engaging because it highlights the real dangers faced by big wave surfers and the mental fortitude required to overcome those challenges. Shane mentioned seeing his kids in his mind and that gave him the power to get out of the wipeout.

Another story that stood out was about him having to surf in a new vest that was too tight and restricting his breathing. This caused him to panic as he was going down a wave. He nearly suffocated and had to rip the vest off while underwater. It really goes to show even the best laid plans can go awry. Luckily, he was able to make it out okay, but it’s a stark reminder of the unpredictable nature of the ocean.

Actionable Insights & Takeaways

Breath-holding exercises can improve overall well-being: Even if you’re not a surfer, practicing breath-holding techniques can help reduce stress and improve cardiovascular health.
Mental preparation is key: Visualize potential challenges and rehearse your responses to improve your performance in high-pressure situations.
Invest in proper safety equipment: Whether you’re surfing, climbing, or engaging in any extreme activity, ensure you have the right gear to protect yourself.

Conclusion

This episode with Shane Dorian is a captivating exploration of the world of big wave surfing. It’s a reminder of the incredible risks these athletes take, but it’s also an inspiring story about overcoming fear, pushing limits, and the importance of preparation. Anyone interested in extreme sports, mindfulness, or the psychology of risk-taking will find this episode fascinating. Give it a listen!